Expert Haircuts for Men with Long Faces and Coily Hair
Low taper with flat coily top, avoid high fades.
When it comes to haircuts for men with long faces and coily hair, the key is to manage the height and width effectively. Coily hair tends to gain height quickly, which can further elongate an oblong face. By controlling the top height to about 1-2 inches and choosing the right fade, you can achieve a more balanced appearance. Additionally, the placement of your line-up and the style of your goatee or beard can serve as tools to add width and counteract the length of your face.
It's important to remember that while face shape is a guide, your hair type and lifestyle play significant roles in determining the best haircut for you. For men with coily, thick hair, the goal is to maintain a short length on top while ensuring the sides are tapered appropriately. This approach helps in minimizing the height and maximizing the width, creating a more proportionate look.
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Visage-Centric Hair Design: Tailoring Coily Hair for Oblong Faces
When crafting a haircut for men with coily hair and an oblong face, the primary goal is to manage the natural height that coily hair can create. This height can further elongate the face, so the strategy is to control the top height to approximately 1-2 inches. This approach helps in balancing the facial proportions, making the face appear less elongated. The choice of fade is crucial; a low or taper fade is recommended over a high fade to maintain a cohesive look that doesn't draw attention upwards, which can accentuate the length of the face.
The placement of the line-up is another critical element in this haircut design. A well-defined line-up can frame the face, providing a structured look that counters the oblong shape. Additionally, incorporating a goatee or beard can serve as a width tool, adding dimension to the lower part of the face and creating a more balanced appearance. This facial hair acts as a visual anchor, drawing the eye downwards and away from the length of the face.
It's important to remember that while face shape is a guide, hair type and personal lifestyle play significant roles in determining the final look. Coily hair's natural texture and thickness require specific cutting techniques to avoid unwanted height and to ensure the style is manageable. Regular trims, about every 4-6 weeks, are essential to maintain the controlled height and neat line-up. Communicating these specific needs and preferences to your stylist will ensure that the haircut not only complements your face shape but also suits your hair's unique characteristics and your lifestyle.
Cuts that work
Low taper with a flat coily top
This cut is designed to minimize height on top, which is crucial for balancing an oblong face. The low taper fade creates a gradual transition from the top to the sides, ensuring that the hair doesn't add unnecessary length to your face. The flat coily top, kept at about one inch, adds texture without height, maintaining a sleek and streamlined look. This style is particularly effective for coily hair as it naturally holds its shape, requiring less maintenance while still looking polished.
What to ask your stylist: Request a low taper fade with a short, flat coily top about one inch tall. Ensure the hairline is clean and the transition is smooth. Ask for a guard size 2-3 on the sides and a 4-5 on top to achieve the desired length and taper.
Maintenance: Trim every 4-6 weeks to maintain the flat top and fade. Use a light pomade to keep the hair in place and enhance the coily texture.
Short sponge-twist top with fuller sides
This cut offers a bit more texture and volume on top while still controlling height, which is ideal for an oblong face. The short sponge twists add a unique, eye-catching element without significantly increasing the height. The low taper on the sides maintains some width, helping to balance the face shape. A goatee complements this style by adding width to the lower face, creating a more proportionate look.
What to ask your stylist: Ask for a short sponge-twist top with a low taper on the sides. Keep the sides slightly fuller to add width. Request a guard size 2 on the sides and a 4 on top. Ensure the twists are defined and the taper is smooth. Also, ask for a clean, defined goatee.
Maintenance: Trim every 3-4 weeks to keep the twists defined and the taper neat. Use a twisting cream to maintain the twist pattern and a light beard oil for the goatee.
Textured crop with a high fade
This cut provides a modern, edgy look while still adhering to the principle of controlling height. The textured crop on top adds dimension without significant height, which is essential for balancing an oblong face. The high fade creates a stark contrast between the top and sides, drawing attention upwards and away from the length of the face. This style is versatile and can be tailored to suit your personal preference for texture and length.
What to ask your stylist: Request a textured crop with a high fade. Keep the top at about 1.5 inches to control height. Use a guard size 1-2 on the sides for the high fade and a 4-5 on top for the crop. Ask for texturizing shears to create the desired effect.
Maintenance: Trim every 5-6 weeks to maintain the texture and fade. Use a matte pomade to keep the hair in place and enhance the texture.
Cuts to avoid
- High fades. A high fade on coily hair can create an unintended contrast that visually elongates your face further. Since coily hair tends to gain height quickly, a high fade might emphasize the length of your face, which is something we aim to balance. Opt for a low or taper fade instead to maintain a more proportionate look.
- Excessive layering on top. While layers can add texture, too many layers on coily hair can lead to unwanted volume and height, especially on an oblong face. This can exaggerate the length of your face. Stick to minimal layering to control the height and keep the cut sleek.
- Unstructured sideburns. Unstructured sideburns can disrupt the balance you're trying to achieve with your haircut. They can draw attention away from your face's width, making it appear even longer. A clean, defined line-up will help frame your face better and contribute to a more balanced appearance.
Styling tips
- Use a light-hold mousse to define your coils without adding extra height. Apply it to damp hair and scrunch to enhance the natural pattern.
- For a low taper with a flat coily top, ask your stylist to keep the top around 1 inch in height using a #3 guard, ensuring it's flat and even.
- Incorporate a goatee or beard to add width to your face. This can help counteract the elongation effect of an oblong face shape.
- For the short sponge-twist top, request a #2 guard on top with a low taper on the sides to maintain some width. Ensure the twists are tight and uniform.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I get a trim?
Given the coily nature of your hair, you'll want to maintain your cut every 4-6 weeks. This cadence helps keep the shape and prevents the hair from growing out too much, which can add unwanted height and disrupt the balance of your cut.
Can I style my hair in different ways with this cut?
Absolutely. While the cut is designed to minimize height and control volume, you can still style it in various ways. For instance, you can use a light gel to define your coils for a more polished look, or let them air dry for a natural finish. The key is to avoid products that add too much height or volume.
Will this cut suit my active lifestyle?
Yes, this cut is designed to be low-maintenance and suitable for an active lifestyle. The short length and controlled height mean you won't have to spend a lot of time styling it each day. Plus, the flat top and low taper are less likely to get in your way during physical activities.
How do I maintain my line-up?
To maintain your line-up, visit your barber every 2-3 weeks. This ensures the edges stay clean and sharp, contributing to the overall balanced look of your haircut. Using a quality edge-up razor at home can also help keep the line-up neat between visits.
Photos: the "before" image is a stock photo (The Oluseyi, Pexels); the "after" images are AI-generated edits of that photo, shown to illustrate the cut. Real results depend on your hair.